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THE PLACE
Further ahead are the old temples, narrow lanes, crumbling small houses, plinths and pillars, and antique architectural elements. Even the brick and mud walls of the humble houses are studded with these sculptural fragments, which are carelessly strewn along the roadside and fields. To an outsider, it is an amazing sight, to the locals it is a way of life. Men use them as seats while playing cards or sunning themselves. Women sit on them doing sundry household chores, embroidering or simply gossiping, and children play with them.
The Temple Town
The town still has a distinct old world charm. On the vast expanse of the blue water float beautiful lotus flowers. Beyond its steep stone embankments, studded with old sculptures, rises the town. The houses are perched at a height due to successive stages of building and occupation. Sections of brick and stone fortification can be seen in places pierced with six gates-Arjun Bari, Nadiol, Amarthol, Ghaskol, Pathori and Amarthol. The Amarthol gate area is the oldest existing part of the town. This site has yielded large remains of a group of six temples standing on spacious platforms. The principal shrine facing the west is renovated and painted. It now houses an image of the goddess Ambaji known as Amther Mata. The external niches of the temple contain images of Paravati, Mahishasurmardini etc. Behind the main shrine stand the smaller shrines dedicated to Vishnu, Saptmatrikas, Surya etc. The doorframe and niches of the Vishnu shrine display images of Vishnu's ten incarnations while the lintel over the doorframe bears images of navagrahas or the nine planets. This group of temples dates back to the 10th century AD.
There are scores of temples dedicated to almost every God-Shiva, Chhabila, Hanuman, Ashapuri Mata, Ambaji Mata, Vishnupuri, Gaurikund to name just a few. Of the numerous Shiva shrines, the 15th century Hatkeshwar Mahadev is the most important. He is the family deity of the Nagar Brahmins. Facing the east, it is enclosed by a high wall surmounted by three circular domes. From the roof of the sanctum rises a massive pinnacle, which soars high above in the sky. A massive congregation hall leads to the sanctum which houses a shivling said to have self-emerged or as it is said-swayambhu. The exterior of the temple is exquisitely and profusely ornamented with figures of the nine planets, regent deities, the chief gods of the Hindu pantheon, scenes from the life of Krishna and Pandava princes, besides the varied animal and floral motifs. The premises also house an older Kashivishveshvara Shiva Temple, a Swaminarayan Temple and two Jain temples.
Renovated twice or thrice is the Sitla Mata Temple ornately carved with figures of celestial beings. It's doorframes and ceilings depict rasmandala (Krishna dancing with milkmaids) scenes. The most striking pieces of architecture in Vadnagar, however, are the two magnificent Kirtistambhas or triumphal arches. Built of red sandstone they are both identical in size and style. Only, one lies in pieces on the ground and the other stand erect. Its pillars and arches are decorated with lozenges at the base and geometric and floral designs-leaves, creepers, lotus, animal motifs, human figures engaged in various activities and divine figures in different poses. The top bears an image of a seated god perhaps Shiva or Kartikeya (son of Shiva) flanked by Ganesh and Makara (griffin) from which spring arches. A number of standing female figures also ornament the top.
An Education Center
Vadnagar was an important center of education in the past. The town is credited as the place where the Jain muni named Bhadrabahu authored the Kalpasutra. Yet another legend relates it to Tana and Riri, two sisters, who sang the raga Malhar, to call the rains and relieve Tansen from the burning sensation that he had developed from singing raga Deepak.
HOW TO REACH
By Air
The nearest airport is at Ahmedabad, which is 112 km away.
By Railway
The nearest railway station is at Mehsana, which is connected to Ahmedabad a major railhead.
By Road
Vadnagar is well connected to Mehsana, which is 34 km away, and Ahmedabad by buses.
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