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Shillong: An Abode in the Clouds |
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Open a window anywhere in Shillong and the chances are that you will find a waterfall gushing down a hill with little children bathing happily at its base.
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These falls whether small or big or famous like 'Spread Eagle' and 'Elephant', Shillong has a countless number of them.
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It is a hill-station with a difference. No snow, no extreme cold, but a bracing climate and people who comprise a pot-pourri of colourful tribals, many of whom have converted to Christianity.
On the basis of admiring descriptions by many a delighted traveler, Shillong has been nicknamed Scotland of the East. And so it is with its spectacular sunrises, picturesque hills, and vast lakes - all yet untouched by the humdrum of modern civilization.
I took an Indian Airlines flight from New Delhi to Guwahati, the capital of Assam. Then a three and a half hour drive up the greenery-filled mountains got us to this capital town in Meghalaya - the abode of the cloud. Half way up, it is traditional to stop at Nong-Poh village for a 'cuppa'. The tiny shops here are full of pineapples, oranges, local cherries and the famous Cherrapunji bananas.
A few miles short of Shillong is Barapani - named thus because of the vast lake around which it is situated. Barapani houses the only integrated water sports complex in India. Facilities include water scooters, disc riding, speedboat rides, pleasure cruises and swimming. If one wants to break journey, there is a modern resort hotel built by the famous architect, Charles Correa. Barapani resort called the Orchid Lake Complex is pretty close to Shillong.
On to Shillong, the Pinewood Hotel was once a tea planters' club. It still has the ambience that sets the mood in the largest and oldest hill station of India.
It is impossible to be bored in Shillong. I spent a long action-packed weekend and could have happily stayed on for another week. A golfer's haven, it has an 18-hole course with rolling downs and majestic pine trees drawing players from all over the world. If you prefer trekking, spend a day visiting Shillong Peak - a breath-taking beautiful mountain peak from where one gets a bird's eye view of Shillong, 10 kilometers away. Another day visit the zoo, unique because of rare animals like the clouded leopard, the Binturong and the usual ones like the Assam monkeys, rabbits and deer.
For picnickers Shillong has endless possibilities - at Wards Lake we whiled away an afternoon boating and feeding the fish; at the Botanical Gardens we gazed at unusual plants with long names; at Lady Harding Park the children took to the swing and at the Crinoline Waterfall and swimming pool we had a 'bash' at learning the local martial arts.
Teer, the most exciting of all gambling events in northeastern India, is legal. Tribals here master the art of archery at a very early age. Representatives of various archery clouds congregate at the polo grounds every evening and shoot arrows at lightning speed on a small target. The number of arrows that hit the target is counted. This is the lucky number. And if you have bet on it you win. The teer arena resembles a mini open-air casino with bars selling the local brew "Kakiyat", tea shops and of course, bookies.
The people of Shillong are its greatest asset - they are warm and hospitable and some, like the Khasis, follow a matriarchal system. It is interesting to note that the women are often the bread earners and the men spend the day playing musical instruments, chewing kwi (betel nut) and looking after the children. Everyone in Shillong sings, plays the piano or strums a guitar.
We loved the Khasi food. They love chilies. Their specialty is jadow - a dish of rice, eaten with a pickle called trumbi, made of fermented soya beans.
Meet a Khasi child and ask him his name. You may be in for a shock - it could be 'Miracle', 'Between' or even 'Full Stop'.
A visit to a tribal home in Shillong is a treat. Most houses re bamboo and wood structures kept together with mud paste. This is to guard against earthquakes. The Khasis, Garos and others will wine you and dine you and top it all up with kwai. Watch it, for this raw betel nut is an intoxicant.
To really mingle with locals and shop, you must visit 'Bara Bazaar'. The Mizos are weavers and the puan or Mizo skirt takes six months to weave. The Naga's favourite colors seem to be red and black and their shawls with animal designs are collector's items. So are their spears, bows and arrows and the traditional headgear.
Bara Bazaar has all kinds of hats in various shapes and sizes. Or pick up light bamboo baskets and furniture. And of course the famous Assamese silk.
Any time is the right time to visit the Shillong Hills. Just remember that here "when it rains it pours" and the sun rises and sets early. So don't venture out without an umbrella and a torch.
REACHING OUT FROM SHILLONG
About 20 kilometers beyond Shillong is Mawphlang, a tiny village where cherry brandy and pork sausages are made. The villagers obligingly show you how the wine is made and let you taste it too.
Close to Mawphlang is the Khasi sacred grove where the traditional Khasis still follow practices of animistic worship. The grove is full of flowering trees and exotic orchards.
A four-hour drive from Shillong gets you to Cherrapunji. It is the wettest place in the world with the highest rainfall. Its also famous for limestone caves, the Tiger hills, Cherapunji bananas and pure honey.
In Jakrem, also four hours drive away, are sulphur hot springs with medicinal virtues and in Mawsysnram is the famous Mawjymbuin cave, where you can watch water dripping from a breast-shaped stone hanging from the ceiling on to a stone that looks like the Shivlinga.
GETTING THERE
Shillong lies 100 kilometers south of Guwahati, capital of Assam, at an altitude of approximately 1500 metres.
By Air
Two flights daily connect Delhi to Guwahati from where there is a helicopter service (weather permitting) to Shillong.
By Rail
Guwahati is connected by rail to Delhi and Calcutta.
By Road
Services (regular and deluxe) are available for Shillong from Borijhar airport, Guwahati and the Guwahati railway station at regular intervals.
MISCELLANEOUS
The best time to visit Shillong
March - April, October - November
What to take
Light-medium woolens, a sturdy pair of water resistant, walking shoes, an umbrella.
Interesting Day Trips
Cherapunji - 56 kilometers. Heaviest rainfall area, magnificent gorges, lush tropical vegetation and orchids, Mawsmai falls, Nolalikai falls, David Scott Memorial, panoramic view of Bangladesh, Mot Trop rock (a breathtaking rock formation in the shape of a Shivling)
Umiam Lake (Barapani) - 16 kilometers. It is an ideal picnic spot, a favourite for anglers and water sports enthusiasts with the Orchid Resort restaurant that overlooks the lake.
Mawphlang - 24 kilometers. A famous picnic spot, with a quaint restaurant that serves the local fruity beer and brandy distilled once by Capt. Hunt and now by the family. The sacred grove, and an old track which once connected Shillong to Cherapunji spell the mystery and mystique of the Khasi-Hills.
Courtesy : Discover India
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