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Orissa - Monumental Splendor |
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A visitor to Orissa is immediately captivated by the beauty of the land and the monumental splendor of its temples.
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Just as we were during our visit last winter.
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Wherever one travels, the eye meets the rich earth, its verdant mango groves, spreading banyan trees, rows of coconut palms and casuarinas along the 482 kilometers of magnificent sandy sea beach. Surely Jayadeva, the Oriya poet of ancient time had sung of this land when he wrote of the love of Radha and Krishna in the blossoming groves of Brindavan: "the blossoms of Bacul… The Tamla… the Plasa… The Cetaca... Patali-flowers… The Caruna… Madhavi. Mallica. The Amra... Atimusta, and the blue streams of yamuni wind round the groves the groves of Brindavan"
It is here I felt that manpower had united with nature forces-earth, sea and sun. This universal triad has a locale in Orissa Golden Triangle ---Bhubaneswar, which as the priest at the Lingaraj Temple told us, derives its name from the power emerging from bhuv or the earth; Puri, where the navel of Krishna immersed into blue stone that paves the way for the image of Jagannath (Lord of the Universe); Konark, the Kona (corner) of the ark (the sun) where stupendous ruins of the Sun Temple of Konark stand, bearing witness in all its splendor and glory, to the worship of the Sun. We seemed to follow a golden thread as we journeyed from Bhubaneswar to Puri and from Puri to Konark.
Ancient is the land, ancient its name. Bhubaneswar as we learnt during our (a mango grove), appropriately the fruition of the vegetative earth; Puri was called sankha kshetra (the holy place which is like a conch-shell) and Konark was called Konaditya (the corner of the sun) or surya kshetra (the holy place of the sun). Bhubaneswar is a tale of two cities, a new wing of the city growing rapidly keeping pace with the needs of the present and the old Bhubaneswar with its innumerable temples.
It was to the old city of the temples that we directed our steps. Past the holy ponds and little shrines under the trees, we seemed to enter the heart of the city-little shops and stalls, incense and flowers for offering; the saffron robed men all along the way, the sacred banyan tree--- on the gateway of the temple. The sanctity of Bhubaneswar is unquestionable is unquestionable.
Through the ages this sacred spirit has gives impetus to the devout rulers to construct sacred edifices. The greatest period of temple building activity is known to be from the 7th century A.D. to 11th century A.D. under the rule of the Ganga dynasty. It was, during this period that the 'Kalinga' style of architecture started flowering. An embodiment of this style is the majestic Lingaraj Temple with its towering shikhar (pinnacle) with richly carved moldings. Built in the 11th century, one may marvel at the architectural feat: how, without modern contrivances heavy slabs of stone could have carried and put together at this height? Yet to me the greater wonder lay in the human spirit: what hands could have molded and carved bird and beast, man, woman, or god? Garuda, the vehicle of Lord Vishnu, and Nandi, the mount of Shiva coexist on the pillar in the outer precinct of the temple. As we wandered round the temple we saw more than a hundred shrines of various deities; the presiding deity of the sanctuary is Tribhubneswar or 'Lord Lingaraj', Shiva himself. As I sat and watched the shikhar in the changing light of the day, suddenly it seemed that the supreme force of the universe was emerging from bhuv and rearing into infinite space.
Next morning as we set out for Mukteshwar--- a cluster of temples on the fringe of the city --- with the first rays of the rising sun, the slumbering life of its energy seemed to rise in this "gem of Orissan architecture". In the sanctorum once again we encountered the same symbol - not as a flaming energy but as a steady glow of blessed energy of the garbha-griha (the womb house) reunited in productive harmony with the female creative energy, the yoni bedecked with fresh flowers and the priest's offerings. Is it not this which gives an almost imperceptible flow in the carvings and moldings of this shrine?
The Rajarani Temple (so called because of the Rajarani, kind of sand-stone used) set amidst expansive gardens, is another 'gem' with tall and slender nayikas (heroines) carved in amorous dalliance, or in an enchanted animation of a dance, looking into the mirror or beneath a tree, with a pet peacock or a child, appear fascinating. Constructed in the 11th century and originally dedicated to Lord Shiva 'Indreswar', there is now no deity in its recesses.
Kedar-Gauri, Ajanta Vasudeva, Vaital, Sisireswar, Parsurameswar, Brahmeswar, Megheswar-almost an endless chain of rich architecture and esoteric practice -enchanted us with the beauty if design and rhythmic vigor of carvings.
Side by side with the great Hindu temples one comes across Buddhist and Jain shrines. Eight kilometers from Bhubaneswar, a road winding through the paddy field led us to the great Buddhist shrine of Dhauli famous for the rock edicts of Ashoka. It was here, after the victory in the battle of Kalinga (C 261 B.C.), that Ashoka, the Mauryan emperor, renounced arms and took to Buddha's teachings. The present pagoda, sublime in its unstained whiteness, in the golden sunshine, appears as a continuing symbol of the message of peace.
On the other side of the city lie the famous Jain Caves of Khandagiri and Udayagiri. After the death of Ashoka, in the 1st century B.C. Kharevala, considered "the greatest king ever to rule Kalinga," restored Jainism among his people. The rock-cut caves, built for Jain, monks, are a rare specimen of Indian cave carvings and art. King Kharvela's rock edict in Pali can be seen in 'Hathi Gumpha' (elephant cave). Here are the origins of the Odissi dance, traced on the walls of 'Rani Gumpha' (queen's cave) which are thought to be the first recorded depiction of the dance in our country dating as far back as 2nd century B.C. Just 20 kilometers away is Nandan Kanan, a botanical and zoological park, picturesquely carved out of the Chandaka forest which offers a delightful excursion for lovers or nature and wildlife.
It is the awareness of an affinity inherent in forms of life and art that has given the Orissan craftsman his given the Orissan craftsman his themes and objects. Even something so refined as the silver filigree of Cuttack, borrows the bloom from nature's storehouse; and elephants move in a procession, round bloom lotus in appliqué work, which we came across at Pipli on the road from Bhubaneswar to Puri.
On the way to Puri by road (62 kilometers from Bhubaneswar), we saw white wall-paintings done with rice powder, with some colour thrown in between, gaily decorating the mud walls of the village houses. Lamps were lit by the time we arrived in Puri and hand-made terracotta toys and shells gleamed by their light.
Puri, a still more ancient town from time immemorial has been a center of religious worship as one of the four principal dhams (abodes) in India. Here we found ourselves at the abode of Lord Jagannath, the Lord of the Universe. The ancient lore here still lives in the image of Jagannath and in the hearts of the devotees.
Lord Jagannath, originally as tribal god worshipped by adivasis (aborigines) is a transformation of many deities. Some devotees narrated to us "that after Lord Krishna's death his navel was not consumed by the funeral flames, so it was immersed in the sea at Puri where it later appeared as the blue stone image of Lord Krishna Neela Madhab. The Neela Madhab disappeared when Vidyapati, a Brahmin, came in search of it and reappeared in the form of daru (log floating on the sea). The present image is said to have been carved out of this log by Lord Vishnu himself in the guise of an old carpenter. He laid the condition that no one was to watch him for 21 days But the king peeped in on the fifteenth day and found the 'carpenter' had disappeared leaving behind three unfinished images fashioned from waist upwards-of Jagannath, Balabhadra and their sister Subhadra has no hands. But what hold one's attention as one enters the sanctuary are the eyes-enormous, round and piercing.
Lord Jagannath is the ruling sovereign of Orissa. The daily rituals of the temple reveal that this Lord is no different from any other human being. But these rituals are conducted with great pomp and ceremony, for example the bhog ceremony (the offering). The temple has the largest kitchen in the world feeding about a hundred thousand devotees every day with its unique food called Maha Prasada prepared by a steaming process, the aroma is as tempting as the delicious cooking.
The entire life of the town revolves round Lord Jagannath and his temple. Known as the 'White Pagoda', the temple-a marvel of Orissan architecture, was built by chodaganga Dev in the 12th century, and is the tallest of the temples-65 meters. The temple, like other temples of the period in Orissa, has four mandaps (halls) bhog (offering), Jagmohan (dancing hall) mukhasala (hall of audience) and badadeula (inner sanctum). The practice of the Devdasi (the votary pf the Lord), where the dancer consecrated soul and body to Lord Jagannath originated mahari (maha-nari, supreme woman) who danced morning and evening for the Lord. The practice however has been discontinued except for the songs sung at the Kalghat door during the Badasimahar Bhoga. The present form of Odissi dance follows from the mahari dance and practice.
On the other side of town, life flourishes around the famous golden beach, which draws tourists from all over the world. Its sands, warm waters, the white surf breaking on the shore, the sails dotting the horizon, the cool breeze and the sun beating upon sea and sand, is paradise for the bathers. Evening brings the old and the young to the beach, the vendors hawking their wares---hot tea or fresh coconut water---children, women in all their colourful finery, to view the sun set into the sea. The beach is a perpetual delight.
The beach extends right upto Konark and the newly constructed Marine Drive, which we traversed at daybreak, follows the course of the beach. It is a visual treat with the blue waters of the sea on one side and the vast expanse of the sand lined with casuarinas groves on the other.
A strange kind of silence engulfs you as you approach the ruins of Konark. It stands far from habitation and man, looking magnificent in its solitude, with nothing but waves and sands surrounding it. Built by Narasimha I of the Ganga dynasty in the 13th century, after his victory in the battle of kateasin (1254) against Muslims invaders, the temple was constructed by the sea-now recorded-and was dedicated to the Sun.
Sun worship is as old as man. Man beheld the vision of the infinite in the light and offered oblation to the Sun. What could be a better place than by the sea where waters stretch to infinity and the myth of creation in enacted each day with the sunrise.
We would wind our way to the beach every morning when the stars were still shining in the sky and starfish gleamed in the waters. Entranced, we watched the sky turn a lustrous pink and the colour of the shell lying by our feet turn to fire.
The construction of the temple is in the form of the sun in its course. "The great Surya of whom it is said it is the very self of the atma (soul) traveling in the chariot of living beings. The wheel is the very Self of Time, the seven horses are the life impulses of creatures", though the sun no longer occupies its throne in the temple. We look with awe and reverence at the recurring revolution of life on the minutely carved wheel on panels where nagas (serpents) rise in coiled embrace. Is it not here that the two fires, the one rising from bhuv the earth, and the other descending from above meet?
In the ruins of the Natya Mandir (dancing hall) of the temple, the dancer, supple and graceful, dance to strange rhythms. Day after day I sat in front of these images till their mysterious presence began to illuminate my soul.
GETTING THERE
By Air
Indian Airlines flies to Bhubaneswar with connections from Delhi, Varanasi, Raipur, Calcutta, Visakhapatnam and Hyderabad.
By Rail
Bhubaneswar and Puri (Railway Terminus) are on the S.E. Railway having direct connections with Calcutta, New Delhi, Waltair, Hyderabad, Bombay, Madras and Bokaro Steel City.
By Road
Bhubaneswar, being the State capital, is connected with good motorable roads from different parts of Orissa, including Puri (62 kilometers) and Konark (65 kilometers) Regular bus service including special tourist buses are available for a visit to the Golden Triangle. National Highway No. 5, connecting Calcutta, Visakhapatnam and Madras pass through Bhubaneswar.
Puri and Konark are connected by the Marine Drive (35 kilometers) or via Pipli (85 kilometers)
WHAT TO SEE
Visit to the Golden Triangle starts at Bhubaneswar. A visitor should plan 4-5 days minimum for this visit-2 days each at Bhubaneswar and Puri and one day at Konark.
Bhubaneswar The state capital-with hundreds of temples provides an ideal introduction to the rich cultural heritage of the State of Orissa. Visits to the Lingaraj Temple and the Rajrani (11th century A.D.) are a must. Those more deeply interested in ancient temple architecture may visit the temples of Laxmaneswar, Satrughaneswar and Bharateswar (6th century A.D.), Parsurameswar and Swarnajaleswar (7th century A.D.), Vaital (8th century A.D.), Brahmeswar (11th century A.D.) and Ananta Vasudeva (13th century A.D.)
Orissa State Museum, Tribal Research Museum and Handicrafts House should also be on visitor's lists.
Nearby excursions (8 kilometers) to Khandagiri and Udayagiri caves belonging to the 1st -2nd century B.C, to Dhauli (8 kilometers) with the Buddhist Peace Pagoda constructed in 1972 and the Zoo and Botanical Gardens at Nandan Kanan (120 kilometers) cater to a variety of interests.
Puri
One of the four most important religious centers in India, Puri is famous for its Jagannath Temple. Other temples of interest are Gundicha, Lokanath and Tota Gopinath and tanks like Sweta Ganga and indradyumna.
Puri, a popular beach resort is of special attraction for visitors fond of swimming in the sea. Excursions to Balighai (8 kilometers), a picnic spot and Satyaabadi (20 kilometers) with its shrine dedicated to Lord Sakhigopal are recommended.
Konark
With its famous Sun Temple Konark is the high point of a visit to the Golden Triangle. The temple built in the 13th century and now in ruins is replete with stone sculpture. The temple is one of the unrivalled technical marvels that the age has produced.
Courtesy : Discover India
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