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Lahaul-Spiti
(A Desert in the Mountains) |
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It was almost mid-day by the time we reached the Rohtang Pass - 3978 metres above sea level.
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A bus journey of three hours from Manali along the course of the rive Beas, had brought us to this gateway to the mysterious valleys of Lahaul and Spiti.
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Rohtang Pass is the only access to these twin valleys and is open only for a short spell in the summer months. For the most part of the seven wintry months from November through May the Pass remains snowbound. Even in summer this four - kilometer stretch of pass is dreaded for its icy winds that occasionally turn into blizzards.
There is an interesting legend about Rohtang. There was a time when there was no pass and the Lahaulis had no way of getting out of the valley. They had heard of another valley in the south, green and gentle but were unable to find a way to it. They accepted their snow - bound barren land. But when once again the attractions of the richness of the adjoining valley beckoned, they sought a way out by appealing to Lord Shiva. The temperamental lord was enraged that the people had not approached him earlier. He asked them to sacrifice a virgin in penance. He then used his Trishul (trident) to cut an opening into the mountains. The Trishul can still be seen standing where it landed two thousand feet below. But as a constant reminder of the people’s lack of faith in him, Lord Shiva cursed the pass with an icy wind. Fortunately, on this sunny September day we found the pass devoid of snow and the wind less fierce.
Our bus moved along the Leh-Manali highway, the second highest motorable road in the world. From one end of the pass to the other the transition of natural features is quite distinct and spectacular - from the lush green, humid valley of Kulu to the stark, bizarre and barren landscape with bare, snow-mantled rock massifs. Far down below you can see the emerald green Chandra River girdling the lofty mountains along it scours, originating from the snow bed near the Baralacha pass at a height of 4867 metres. From the other end of Baralacha, the river Bhaga comes down cutting across the western part of Lahaul and joining the Chandra at Tandi. It then becomes the Chandrabhaga.
In the adjoining valley the river Spiti emerges as a narrow stream from the Shigri glacier near the Kunzom Pass (4590 metres) and joins the Sutlej at Khab bordering the Kinnaur valley. Surrounded by the Kulu valley in the south, Ladakh in the north and Tibet in the east, the twin valleys are a stark, rugged land where numerous snow peaks soar above 6000 metres into an intensely dark blue sky. With glaciers rolling down the barren precipices into formidable torrents, Lahaul and Spiti is not a destination for a leisurely holiday. It is a difficult terrain ideal for those looking for a trekking and adventurous holiday.
The desolate Spiti valley may be termed a high altitude cold desert of moraines and glacial erosions. It is located in the rain shadow area of the middle Himalayan ranges where the rains are scarce and there is little vegetation. The few villages we came across where huddled around streams and rivers where the sandy soil is fertile. Farmers were busy with their crops of barley and potatoes, their occupation during the summer months. Come winter and the families would be indoors spinning and weaving.
From Rohtang Pass the road descends and bifurcates at Gramphu and one road leads to Kunzom Pass, the entrance to Spiti. The Goddess Kunzom Devi, the eight - armed metallic idol residing in the temple at the Pass, protects the travelers from all perils. Man, animals, vehicles all must pay homage at the temple before proceeding along the jagged mountain slopes.
We made our way to Kaza, the district headquarters, coming across few villages. The highest village in the world is Kibber at 4205 metres above sea level. We also passed the biggest monastery of the valley built on the steep flanks of an extinct volcano. A winding road leads to the Buddhist Gompa, which has several low-ceilinged rooms, dark narrow passages and a steep staircase. Key monastery is famous as a repository of rare-books, manuscripts and murals on Buddhism. It is also famous as a training centre for the lamas. Tabo, the most sacred monastery after the Tholing of Tibet, is located at Kaza and houses a precious collection of stucco sculptures, frescoes, and Buddhist scriptures and objets d’art. Dating back to the 8th century the murals of this monastery are similar to the renowned Ajanta frescoes.
Buddhism holds sway as a religion in the Spiti valley. People practice the Tibetan form of Buddhism where the monastery is an integral part of the way of life. Prayer flags, chortens and ‘Mani’ are a common sight. The walls carry an inscription ‘Om Mani Padme Hoom’ (Halo to the Possessor of the Jewel in the Lotus).
Retracing the journey to Gramphu, the route towards the west leads to Koksar, the first Lahaul village on the banks of the Chandra with a cluster of flat-roofed white walled houses, barley and potato fields, a rest house, a police check post and an old Buddhist Gompa. Compared to Spiti Lahaul is less barren with occasional patches of green. The valley is wider and the highway passes through several flourishing villages. Spectacular waterfalls emerge from glaciers, cascading down thousands of feet along precipices. The sweep of the mountains was however colorless. The hillsides were a faded brown and yellow that merged with the grey of the loose rock.
Set in this brown desert, Keylong and Kardang look like oases of green fields, vibrant with willows and poplars. Across the Bhaga River at Kardang, a 900-year-old Gompa lay in ruins until a lama restored it to its original glory. But an older monastery of the region is the famous Guru Ganthal Gompa said to have been established by guru Padamasamnbhava. Located above the confluence of the rivers Chandra and Bhaga, the monastery is famous for its wooden idols and masks.
Hindu temples and deities hold as strong a sway in the region as Buddhism. A t Udeypur we found a 900-year-old temple dedicated to Mrikula Devi or the Goddess Mahishasura Mardini. Another important shrine in this area is the temple of Lord Avalokiteshwara; an idol similar to the Nataraja resides inside. Buddhists and Hindus both worship here. Shiva and Parvati (Devi Chandrika) are held in great reverence. A synthesis of Indo-Tibetan culture and religion has taken place in a subtle and soothing manner in the lives of the Lahaulis, many of whom have Hindu as well as Buddhist names.
Deities control all the passes and have to be propitiated before a journey is undertaken. Shrines are crammed with tridents and Buddhist prayer flags. Mrikula Devi controls the Kugti Pass. Her moods govern the crossing. People carry a piece of red cloth or a trident to offer at the shrine along with some food. The Himalayas for all their loftiness are very unstable. Loose stones and rocks keep falling. The passes should be crossed before the sun is too high because in the early morning the night’s frost still holds the rocks together. It is for this reason that the locals are in such awe of the deities that control the passes.
Wherever we went in the twin valleys we found the people warm and friendly, welcoming us to join them in drinking butter tea or a tumberful of chang (brewed barley). Most households make their own chang. Visitors join the family in the kitchen-cum-living room and sit down to drink. We sat cross- legged on the carpet in a warm room and were served by the women of the house.
A visit to these valleys is a strange experience. The outside is a different world with a harsh environment, bizarre landscape, and the inside a warm and friendly people with quaint customs and traditions all the more hospitable as if to make up for their inhospitable land and climate.
GETTING THERE
For entering the valley one has to cross the Rohtang Pass. Manali to Keylong the headquarters of the valley is 117 kilometers.
By Rail
Convenient railheads are Chandigarh, Jogindernagar (narow guage with a change at Pathankot), Shimla and then by road to Manali.
By Road
Chandigarh is the usual departure point for buses to Manali. It is a ten-hour drive by bus. There are also direct buses from Shimla (247 kilometers).
Places to See
Keylong
A village amidst green fields of barley and buckwheat, Keylong is the headquarters of the Lahaul and Spiti district. It is 117 kilometers from Manali by a motorable road.
Tandi
It is a legendary village with mythological personages. Rivers Chandra and Bhaga units here. Tandi is 102 kilometers from Manali.
Triloknath and Udeypur
These are two important places of pilgrimage in the Pattan Valley. At Triloknath is a six-armed image of white marble of Avalokiteshvara, Bodhisattva. The temple of Murikula at Udeypur is highly remarkable for its woodcarvings. Udeypur is 166 kilometers from Manali.
Monasteries
Locally called gompas, these are great repositories of Buddhist art and scriptures. Kardang, Shashur, Tyal, Gemur and Guru Ghanthal are some of the famous monasteries in Lahaul.
Note:As far as the valley of Spiti is concerned, it is closed to tourists. Anyone wanting to go there requires to have an innerline permit: For Indian tourists - (D.C. Shimla) SDM Rampur for travel via Kinnaur and D.C. Kulu/D.C. Lahaul and Spiti for travel via Manali). The valley can be approached from Lahaul via Manali and through Kunzom pass via Shimla and Kinnaur. Foreigners have to take permission from the Home Ministry based at Delhi.
Courtesy : Discover India
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