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It was the scene of just another city in India. Humanity in a hurry, rushing around the busy streets.
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Rows of autorickshaws stood outside the railway station in ragged lines. Spasmodically, they would take off, to whiz past-a streak of yellow on lack.
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Pavement hawkers. Shops. Many shops. Stocking all the unending urban wants. Traffic constable Lakhan Singh, neatly dressed in white, was officiously perched in the middle of the bustling square, against the bright backdrop of box-office billboards. It was typical…but wait! There looming up from behind emerged the difference. Magnificent Mehrangarh-one of Rajasthan’s finest forts, looking down protectively over the city, from the hilltop.
One could drive up, but I chose and recommend the walk. With a sweat brow, in the hot mid-day sun, I trudged up the beaten short-cut track from the city. My polluted and unexercised city lungs, made me stop many a time to wheeze a gasp. It wasn’t so steep but was I in bad shape! Climbing and swerving past small huts, the fort kept getting bigger and higher in my esteem. The sheer rock face from where emerged the tall and massive sandstone wall of Mehrangarh, looked awesome indeed.
At last I reached the mammoth gates of the fort. A bearded Jodhpur resident, dressed in traditional threads, complete with turban, sword, shield and hookah, sat posed in his regality to welcome the tourists. A couple of local musicians struck up a local tune. I bought the requisite tickets and set off to explore the palaces, hallways and set off to explore the palaces, hallways and courtyards of Mehrangarh.
It was a royal treat, as I ambled past the carefully preserved regalia and regal artifacts. Phool Mahal, Sukh Mahal, Moti Mahal. Exquisitely decorated ceilings and walls, with delicate lattice work on the windows. Large and unusual wooden statues, painted bright, adorned a palace section amongst an assortment of princely cradles. It was a labyrinth of wonders, not knowing what the next doorway might lead to.
Through the various avenues and routes of this sprawled complex, I found myself on the fort roof, overlooking the entire city of Jodhpur, from over rows of medieval cannons. What a commanding view! The thousands of white houses were chequered with ones painted blue. Traditionally, the Brahmins used to live there. Eventually, when I walked out of the cannon ball scarred Jayapol (Victory Gate) I was reeling from the 15th century experience of Mehrangarh fort…. But there was more to come. Just down the road, I was to discover the beauty of Jaswant Thada.
Red sandstone stairs led up to the chessboard checked courtyard of the neat white marble cenotaph. Dedicated to Maharaja Jaswant, this memorial was built in 1899. From the mass confusion of buildings in the city spread below me, I could see the distant outlines of the Umaid Bhavan Palace. I aligned my sights and made tracks for it.
Worry this section is only for our guests. I’m afraid you cannot go up these steps (they lead to the Maharaja’s suite). No! Not even to take a photograph. Your friend is not properly dressed. John Langford is not allowed here wearing a green kameez, white dhoti and Rajasthani jootis, offset with 35mm sir around his neck. The beautiful corridors, staircases and hallways preserve in near entirety, roused the curiosity of my adventurous spirit. This was to not much avail since the Umaid Bhavan was now a privately owned five star hotel.
A wonderful palace of beige sandstone built by Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1928 and designed by the President of the British Royal Institute of Architects. A blend of several styles, merging pleasantly. All the trappings of Raj influence, pre-independence royal living were present. Royal auditorium ballrooms, huge dinning-room, gilded royal furniture, majestic tiger and deerskins on the walls of a gloomy library of old books, crystal chandeliers, stained glass windows, liveried menservants and doormen, swimming pool in basement, various mementoes and old photographs. There was so much to see and discover.
Outside the manicured lush lawn, was splashed with rows of red and white flowering bushes. From the expanse of green grass, the huge central dome of Umaid Bhavan emerged most prominent, with the four corners peaked into columned minarets. Glowing in the late afternoon sun, this was another royal treasure of Rajasthan.
Before the foundation of Jodhpur was laid, Mandore was the established capital of the old Marwar Kingdom. I had the opportunity to visit here, when I was driving through Jodhpur in my old four wheel-drive jalopy. Just nine kilometers away, Mandore was a fascinating complex of sprawling gardens, massive cenotaphs, temples, ruins and sculpture. The several cenotaphs in memory of the Jodhpur Maharajas were intricately carved, peaked, temple-like structures, with entirely sculpted facades. Gods, goddesses, animals, lotuses, adorned the walls ad pillars of old yellow sandstone. The largest and most noteworthy cenotaph was dedicated to maharaja Ajit Singh.
In a hall were relief sculptures of various deities and rulers, colored bright and mounted on horses. In little corners of temples were rows of beautiful old tiles, excellent ceramic art. Some depicting Lord Rama or Lord Krishna. Then of course, there amongst the temples, figurates, and landscaped vegetation, were the brightly dressed Rajasthani people. The men, proud in their moustaches and turbans, with the ladies in shocking pink or green viels, wandered about in groups, admiring their heritage. They lent a gaiety to the pleasant late afternoon.
By the time I left Mandore it was after sundown. Driving back to my hotel was like being revived back into reality. As I inched forward in the chaotic traffic, an autorickshaw whizzed past, missing my left fender by half a millimeter, causing me to stand on my brakes. My senses were absorbing the cycles, humanity on foot, glaring headlights of the oncoming cars and jeeps, blaring horns, hawkers crying out sales talk. Popular Hindi film songs held forth from a radio somewhere. Brightly lit shops lined both sides of the road. I noticed that the footpath dentist with his fantastic collection of dentures had closed shop. It was such a trying experience, that I had forgotten I was in Jodhpur and not in any old over-crowded Indian city!
Then emerged, from the post sunset darkness, the reminder once again. Mehrangarh. Now glowing yellow gold against black, with artificial lighting. Shining like the guiding star. The Orion of Jodhpur…the sparkle in the crown.
REACHING OUT FROM SHILLONG
About 20 kilometers beyond Shillong is Mawphlang, a tiny village where cherry brandy and pork sausages are made. The villagers obligingly show you how the wine is made and let you taste it too.
Close to Mawphlang is the Khasi sacred grove where the traditional Khasis still follow practices of animistic worship. The grove is full of flowering trees and exotic orchards.
A four-hour drive from Shillong gets you to Cherrapunji. It is the wettest place in the world with the highest rainfall. Its also famous for limestone caves, the Tiger hills, Cherapunji bananas and pure honey.
In Jakrem, also four hours drive away, are sulphur hot springs with medicinal virtues and in Mawsysnram is the famous Mawjymbuin cave, where you can watch water dripping from a breast-shaped stone hanging from the ceiling on to a stone that looks like the Shivlinga.
GETTING THERE
By Air
Indian Airlines have two Bombay-Delhi flights and two Delhi-Mumbai flights that go via Jodhpur.
By Rail
Super fast trains from Delhi take 10 hours. Other trains take 16 hours to cover the 626 Kilometers between Delhi and Jodhpur.
SHOPPING
A shopper’s paradise, Jodhpur is famous for embroidered shoes, carved wood, silver and metal ware. The main shopping areas are: Sojati Gate, Station Road, Tripolia Bazaar, Mochi Bazaar, Khanda Fasla, Lakhara Bazaar.
Places to see
Mehrangarh fort: Standing sentinel to the city, the fort houses a palaces intricately decorated with long carved panels and latticed windows.
Jaswant Thada: Cenotaphs of the rulers commemorating their acts of bravery.
Umaid Bhawan Palace: Experience the ambience of royal splendor.
Museum: Exhibits a rich collection of armory, textiles, arts and crafts, miniature paintings, portraits, manuscripts and images of Jain Tirthankaras.
Girdikot and Sardar Market: Narrow lanes are dotted with tiny shops selling colourful textiles, handicrafts and jewellery.
Around Jodhpur
Mahamandir Temple: Two kilometers away on the Mandore Road, is this impressive temple with 84 pillars ornamented with detailed carvings of yogic postures.
Kailana Lake: A charming picnic spot around a lake, famous for a spectacular view of sunset. Eleven kilometers from Jodhpur.
Balsamand Lake and palace: a summer palace on the embankments of a serene and calm lake. Seven kilometers away from Jodhpur.
Mandore Garments: Nine kilometers away are the ruins of the ancient capital of Marwar. The Hill of Heroes, which houses 16 gigantic figures carved out of a single rock, depicting religious and folk deities is worth a visit.
Sardar Samand Lake: A long drive 55 kilometers through the countryside leads to a shimmering lake.
Osian: 65 kilometers away are the ruins of 16 Jain and Hindu temples built between the 8th and 11th centuries.
Nagaur: Famous for an old fort and palace with beautiful murals of lores and legends, Nagaur is 135 kilometers away from Jodhpur. An annual cattle fair held here in January/February is rated as one of the best in Asia. Prospective dates: February 11th to 13th 1992. January 30th to February 2nd 1993.
Note: Also organized every year is the Marwar Festival bringing alive all the colour and vigor of the desert.
Courtesy : Discover India
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