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GWALIOR
(Capturing The History And Legend) |
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One day, Suraj Sen, a prince of the Kachwaha clan, while out hinting, ventured deep into the forest and lost his way.
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Wandering around, he reached an isolated hill where, to his surprise, he came across a venerable old man. This was the sage Gwalipa.
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Tired and thirsty, the prince asked for some water and the sage led him to a pond. Suraj Sen, who suffered from leprosy was astonished when he found that the waters had not only quenched his thirst, but had cured him of his disease as well. Grateful, he asked what he could do is return. The sage told him to beautify the tank and fortify the fill. He did both, and the hill was called Gwalior, in recognition of the boom granted to the prince. This was in the 8th century.
Jaswant Singh, an old Scindia retainer, thus narrates the story of Gwalior. Rich in anecdotes and rendered in an old-world poetic style his narration is enthralling and colourful, bringing alive both history and legend.
Jaswant lives in the Fort that dominates this dry and dusty city described by Babur as 'the pearl among the fortresses of Hind'. Massive, awe-inspiring and battle-scarred, the Fort has witnessed the rise and fall of many dynasties. It towers three hundred feet above the city and few can imagine the time and effort it took to cut the steep cliffs all around the five mile perimeter of the hill and to build the thick walls, in some places to a height of forty to fifty feet.
Truly impressive both in size and the beauty of structure the Fort's history which spans over twelve centuries is evident in the plethora of edifices that do the area; from old, crumbling ruins and exquisite palaces to the modern-day Scindia Public School. Gwalior's strategic position between north and south India made the Fort an important possession and it was captured by several ruling houses. Some left almost as soon as they came, while others stayed on to build and beautify the citadel. The first historical holders were the Huns. The Fort in 10th, 11th and 12th centuries was under the Kachwaha Rajputs, the Pratihars, Qutbuddin Aibak and Iltumish and remained under Muslim possession till 1398. Under the Tomars, whose most important king was Man Singh (1486-1517), Gwalior rose to prominence. The Fort was finally surrendered to Ibrahim Lodhi in 1518.
The Mughals, who later captured the Fort, used it as a prison. While going through the dark, dank subterranean chambers, Jaswant' tale acquires a fearsome and gory touch as he recounts how many of those who entered including Jehangir's eldest son Khusro and Aurangzeb's brother, Murad Baksh never left. He describes how the prisoners were made to drink a decoction of crushed poppy seeds that gradually produced insanity, and finally death. But those were hard, barbaric times.
Held in succession by the Jats, Marathas and the British, the Fort was finally handed over to Jiyaji Rao Scindia at a formal durbar in 1885. The Scindias who were last ruling family of Gwalior, used it as a place of residence till they built their more opulent Italian style palace at Lashkar.
It time permits, Jaswant will show you all the edifices, giving interesting details along the way, he will tell you fro instance, that the Fort has over thirty ponds, eight stepped walls and nine underground pools. He will also take you to Jauharkund and tell you about Jauhar, a ritual of self-immolation by women of royal descent who preferred death to dishonor.
Leading you through the Urvashi gate, where the towering Jain monoliths, with straight, severe forms and staring eyes are cut out of the rock face, Jaswant brings you to Man Mandir the Fort's 'piece de resistance,' the palace built by Man Singh Tomar in the 11th century. A delicate structure exhibiting a sense of joy and abandon through use of colour, motif and design, Man Mandir is at once delightfully spontaneous and yet exhibits a restraint that results in finished perfection: There are chambers for affairs of state as well as those for relaxation, adorned appropriately and ornately with carved animals, flowers and the human form; the yellow, green and bright blue tiles, adding a rich touch of colour, set off by the pale yellow sandstone base.
If Man Mandir reflects Man Singh's aesthetic sensibilities, Gujari Mahal speaks of his love. More significant than the palace itself (which is now a museum) is the tale behind it. Man Singh came across a Gujjar, woman - Mrignayani while she was separating two warring buffaloes. He was not only astonished by her courage, but was also mesmerized by her beauty. Would she be his queen? He asked. Fiercely proud and independent, she was unmoved by the honor. She would agree, she said, only if the waters of her native stream were brought to the palace. Further, she would accept no subservient role and would assume a position of equality at all times. The king agreed and built a palace for her with the waters of the Raj running through it.
Adding another dimension to their relationship was their love for music. The Dhrupad, a sophisticated and evolved form of music was created by them, and it was from this time that the tradition of music with which Gwalior is associated, having a Gharana of its own, developed.
Contrasting with the predominant north Indian style of architecture is the Teli-ka-Mandir. Generally believed to be the oldest temple of the Fort, this ninth century temple, dedicated to Vishnu though Dravidian in form has sculptures that are distinctly north Indian. Some believed it was so named because it was built in the Telengana style, others say this was because it was built by telis (oil merchants). A more recent study ascribes it to Telap Raj, a prime minister of the region.
The Sas Bahu temples, in another part of the Fort are not, as people believe, dedicated to a mother-in-law (sas) and daughter-in-law and daughter-in-law (bahu). Sas Bahu is the name traditionally given to two adjoining temples of different sizes. Similar to the Sas Bahu temples near Udaipur, these were built at the time of Kirtiraj and Mahipal, both Kachwaha rulers. The larger of the two, is profusely sculpted with graceful figures and intricate patterns. This is more apparent in the interior where above the sculpted walls and pillars an elaborately carved lotus, similar to the Dilwara temple at Mount Abu, adorns the roof.
Mani-Kantha, an 11th century poet of Gwalior, describes the musicians and dancing girls who performed in the temple and how it took a whole village to serve both gods and devadasis.
From the Sas Bahu temple, Jaswant will show you the Fort's major attraction, the panoramic view it affords of the three cities of Lashkar, Morar and Gwalior that combine to form what is today known as Gwalior.
The city that lies at the foot of the hill effectively combines the past with the present. Its monuments and edifices are extensions of the main events that have taken place in the Fort. There are, for instance, the chattris, memorials to former Scindia rulers, executed in the typical Bundelkhandi style with conical spires and heavily carved exteriors. At another point in the city is the tomb of Mohammad Ghaus, which is not of much historical significance, but whose sheer beauty is breath-taking.
Here, the stone carving for which the skilled craftsmen of Gwalior were justly famous is apparent in the huge panels of lacy screen work, that combine with an interesting architectural design to create a delicate, ethereal appeal. Adjacent is a small white, austere tomb. This is the memorial to Tansen, a famed musician and one of the nine gems of the mughal Emperor Akbar's court. More than a monument, it is the embodiment of Gwalior's living cultural heritage. Before performing in the Tansen music festival held every winter, musicians pay homage at this tomb. The festival is a major cultural event, drawing prominent performers and music lovers from all parts of the country.
Much of modern Gwalior is associated with the Scindias who were prolific builders. The Jai Vilas Palace at Lashkar is an opulent Italianate structure, set in carefully laid lawns. Part of the palace is used as a residence for the family while the other has been converted into a museum that effectively documents a more leisurely and princely lifestyle. The museum exhibits, consisting of collections of the Scindia family, include such things as chandeliers weighing several tones, a silver toy train whose wagons were used as serving dishes and a glass cradle from Italy used for the Lord Krishna at Janmashtami.
Those who have lived in this city have come to love it. Industrialist G.D. Birla, who has built a small-scale replica of the Sun Temple at Konark and called it Surya Mandir.
Administrators today have not ignored, the city's cultural heritage, and the Baija Taal cultural complex is its latest attraction. Built buy Baija Baj, a distinguished lady of vision, belonging to the Scindia family, this oval shaped tank with bridges leading to the surrounding stone steps faces the Moti Mahal Palace. Originally used for ceremonial and festive occasions, it was till recently suffering from neglect and misuse. In order to restore its former glory, a plan was conceived to convert the premises into a cultural complex comprising an open-air auditorium and art gallery. The inaugural performance was an Indo-French venture, where the audience had the unusual experience of watching a performance on a platform that seemed suspended in mid air. The silt from the tank was used in the construction of the open-air theatre, Kushmakar located in the exhibition grounds where the annual trade fair is organized.
Capturing the ambience of history and legend, the sound and light show held every evening in front of the Man Mandir effectively documents Gwalior's history. With the city lights below, the present is forgotten, as the combination of light and sound takes you back centuries - to an isolated hill, and the sage Gwalipa.
GETTING THERE
By Air
Gwalior is connected by daily Indian Airlines flights to Gwalior, Bhopal, Indore and Delhi.
By Rail
Gwalior is on the Central Railways main Delhi - Gwalior and Delhi - Madras lines. Among other major trains, the Taj and Shatabdi Express operating Express operating daily, connect Gwalior with Delhi and Agra.
By Road
Regular bus service connect Gwalior with Agra, Mathura, Jaipur, Delhi, Lucknow, Bhopal, Chanderi, Indore, Jhansi, Khajuraho, Rewa, Ujjain and Shivpuri.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
Taxis, autorickshaws and six - seater tempos.
EXCURSIONS
Shivpuri (112 kilometers) on the Agra Gwalior Road famed for its Madhav National Park and the Chattris (memorials to former rulers), (239 kilometers). Chanderi (239 km), a well-preserved medieval town famed for the craft of sari weaving, with beautiful structures executed in the Bundelkhandi style.
Orcha (120 kilometers), a former capital of the Bundela Rajputs, has interesting palaces and temples. Other interesting places include, Datia (69 kilometers), Marwar (122 kilometers), and Pawaya (68 kilometers).
Courtesy : Discover India
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