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The Andaman Islands - Port Blair Revisited |
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October 1959
It was a day of festivity in Port Blair.
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Chatham Jetty was decorated with buntings and flags and the whole township had flags and the whole township had gathered to welcome 'M.V. Andamans'.
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It contained their monthly supply of rations, letters and news from the mainland, nearly 1500 miles away. The place was full of the Port Blair population - greeting relative and other - those who had the courage to visit 'Kalapani' and other who hoped for jobs in the islands, far away from their homes near Calcutta and Madras. The few cabins in the ship had a sprinkling of officers ready for a hard posting and maybe an adventurous journalist or writer looking for a scoop. No tourist.
For the week the ship was in jetty there was merry making. Hostesses at local parties served vegetables and fruits otherwise unavailable to islanders. And then the boat sailed away, carrying messages to loved ones and leaving behind a feeling of emptiness. All hopes were now pinned on its next visit or that of 'M.V. Nicobar'. During the monsoons the wait could stretch for months because of the rough seas. The local population remained cut-off from civilization. There were no telephone connections.
Thirty Years Later
A daily flight connects Port Blair to the rest of the world and the islanders are getting used to sharing their rations with tourists - both Indian and foreign. Two major hotels and other smaller ones vie with guesthouses and lodges for clients; and helicopters or smaller boats can be used for island hoping. The Andamans have new look-with co-operative stores, water sports and even some 'forward' tribals in 'formal' wear.
But nothing that really matters has changed in these 'fantasy' islands - the old world charm remains, and adds to the attractions of coral reefs, unspoilt beaches, ruins of monuments and rare flora and fauna. If you dream of a holiday amidst nature in its original glory and if you love the soothing weaves of the sea, the Andamans are for you. But those in search of the bright lights will find the islands still 'backward' and undeveloped.
Port Blair, the capital of the 350 odds islands that comprise the Andaman and Nicobar group, has one major landmark - the Cellular Jail. A Peepal tree, just outside this seven-winged national monument, can tell tales of the torture of India's freedom fighters within its walls. In 1897 the British, who then ruled India, laid the foundation stone of the building, which had 698 solitary cells to ensure that there was no contact between prisoners. Only three of the seven octopus-like wings remain and you walk down their corridor you can still hear the echoes of patriots like Veer Savarker or the booming voice of jailor Berry Bellowing
"Listen you Prisoners
It is here we tame lions
Remember God does not come
Within three miles of Port Blair…"
"In the universe there is but one
God who lives in the heaven above.
But in Port Blair there are two. One
The God of Heaven and the other the God of Earth.
Indeed the God of Earth is myself."
The records at the site museum and a 'death house' bring tears to one's eyes. The islands were called 'Kalapani' or islands with 'black water', the water tinted with the blood of those who would have India free.
A visit to the islands is an emotional one. As the sun rises from Bay of Bengal, the ethereal beauty of unadulterated nature engulfs you. You can spend hours just staring at the clear blue waters with not a sound to disturb you, except the twittering of a song bird or the footsteps of a wild cat or a deer.
The records at the site museum and a 'death house' bring tears to one's eyes. The islands were called 'Kalapani' or islands with 'black water', the water tinted with the blood of those who would have India free.
A visit to the islands is an emotional one. As the sun rises from Bay of Bengal, the ethereal beauty of unadulterated nature engulfs you. You can spend hours just staring at the clear blue waters with not a sound to disturb you, except the twittering of a song bird or the footsteps of a wild cat or a deer.
The Andamans are a paradise for ecologists and ornithologists with 242 species of birds 46 species of mammals and 78 species of reptiles - some of them rare and almost extinct. These live in dense rain forests surrounded buy mangroves that seem to become part of the sea. You do not have to go far out to see brilliant tropical flowers, including the orchid, and an array of butterflies.
Surrounded by all this, take a journey into the past. Into a land which is still home for some of the oldest tribal communities in the world. The books will tell you that there are six recognized tribes that inhabit the several islands. I have met the Onges, who, in 30 years, have progressed much - from living in the nude and visiting the civilized world to ask for chai and bidi to wearing trousers and lungies and living in disciplined wooden huts built for them in Dugong Creek. They have even learnt to 'perform' a tribal dance on request.
The Andamans are a paradise for ecologists and ornithologists with 242 species of birds 46 species of mammals and 78 species of reptiles - some of them rare and almost extinct. These live in dense rain forests surrounded buy mangroves that seem to become part of the sea. You do not have to go far out to see brilliant tropical flowers, including the orchid, and an array of butterflies.
Surrounded by all this, take a journey into the past. Into a land which is still home for some of the oldest tribal communities in the world. The books will tell you that there are six recognized tribes that inhabit the several islands. I have met the Onges, who, in 30 years, have progressed much - from living in the nude and visiting the civilized world to ask for chai and bidi to wearing trousers and lungies and living in disciplined wooden huts built for them in Dugong Creek. They have even learnt to 'perform' a tribal dance on request.
In the late sixties the first few 'Jarawas' strayed into Port Blair like creatures from another world. They were sent back laden with gifts of food, clothing and colourful trinkets. Nothing more was heard of them and it was believed that the five who had ventured into 'hostile' territory had been killed by the others. They are still unfriendly. The Sentinels from North Sentinel Island are downright hostile. We tried getting close to the island but were welcomed with poisoned arrows. The Nicobarese and the Shompens are the most 'modern' of these primitive islanders. The others still prefer life in the raw.
Although Port Blair is only a little town it is interesting to discover that it has a well equipped hospital, reasonably good schools and even a full fledged college! A water sports institute and a son-et-lumiere show will soon be added attractions.
One of the favourite pastimes of all of us who have visited the island is picnicking - at Mount Harriet, once the summer resort of British Chief Commissioners; or Chiriya Tapu with a beach littered with driftwood in amazing shapes and sizes; or at Ross, a small island girdled by tiny coves and beaches and just a stone's throw away from the capital.
Ross Island was once an exclusive preserve of the British who roiled from there for over 50 years. Now, as you walk through the ruins of bungalows, churches, ballrooms, bakeries, clubs and dungeons, you can almost hear the mingling of church bells and dance music and inhale the aroma of freshly baked bread and cakes. Once a visitor stumbled and fell into what he discovered, wire tennis courts attached to the Government House or the home of the Chief Commissioner. Although haunted by ghosts from the past, Ross Island is still peopled - with herds of deer and majestic peacocks that fear no captivity.
Captivities and convicts - they once landed at Viper Island near the mouth of Port Blair harbor. Another picnic spot, it still has ruins of gallows as reminders of a grim past.
From the grim to the glorious - Island like Jolly Buoy, Cinque, Redskin have crystal clear waters which are considered among the best snorkeling spots in the world. If you are lucky, dancing dolphins will guide your ferry part of the way to these islands. Whether discovered through diving or just be sitting in a glass-bottomed boat, the treasures of these coral islands are unforgettable. As the underwater world come alive one forgets that there is a less perfect world outside, so engrossing are the vast expanses of colourful corals, fish and vegetation. A peek into this magic land leaves you in a daze for the rest of the day! Explore it as often as you can for you will dream of it ever after.
The Andamans even have their very own dormant volcano and those who have the courage and stamina to climb to tits mouth on Barren Island never forget the sight of the lava inside or the hard lava-like rocks that make the climb a near impossibility.
While in the Andamans, first pick up souvenirs and keepsakes to take back. Remember there is a ban on taking coral out of the islands. Their natural attractions need to be preserved. So don't plan on a shopping spree - but on a conservationists holiday - savoring and experiencing its wonders and leaving them unspoiled for your next visit. For the discovery of the islands is a long one. I can never have surfeit of it and keep going back. So will you.
Seven days in Port Blair
Day One:-Pay homage to the martyrs. Visit the Cellular Jail and museum. A close look at the Death House and the Instruments of torture brings alive instruments of torture brings alive India's freedom struggle and the contribution of those listed on the jail walls (2 hours)
Familiarize yourself with the town. Visit the emporia and the little shops. Browse around and get a feel of Port Blair (2 hours).
Swim at Corbyn's Cove or one of other safe beaches. But first check on undercurrents and tide imings from your hotel. This is important. Make reservations for day two.
Day One:-Pay homage to the martyrs. Visit the Cellular Jail and museum. A close look at the Death House and the Instruments of torture brings alive instruments of torture brings alive India's freedom struggle and the contribution of those listed on the jail walls (2 hours)
Familiarize yourself with the town. Visit the emporia and the little shops. Browse around and get a feel of Port Blair (2 hours).
Swim at Corbyn's Cove or one of other safe beaches. But first check on undercurrents and tide imings from your hotel. This is important. Make reservations for day two.
Day Two:-Visit Jolly Buoy or Cinque. Swim, snorkel and visit the underwater world (full day).
Day Three:-Ross Island - walk through the ruins of British architecture. See if you can identify the buildings most of them are labeled now. Relive the glory of early 20th century colonial life. You can swim or make friends with the deer. The island is 200 acres and a ferry from Phoenix Bay, gets you there in a few minutes. Early morning Ross is a bird-watcher's paradise.
Go on to Viper Island and see the dungeons and a natural 'amphitheatre', where you can hear your voice echo and marvel at the acoustics. Take a picnic lunch (full day).
Day Four:-Visit Havelock Island by helicopter. It is unspoilt and beautiful. If you are lucky and get a prmit, a cisit to the home of the Onges in Dugong Creek is a must. Stay overnight at Havelock - it takes you back a hundred years to camp life and pristine beauty.
Day Five:-Back to Port Blair. Save this day to continue your study of the island's flora and fauna t Chiriya Tapu or Wandoor.
In the evening buy souvenirs at Aberdeen Bazaar in one of the shops you have discovered.
Day Six:-Visit the Sippighat Farm - 80 acres with a wealth of exotic flora and fauna (2 hours).
The Chatham Saw Mills are interesting and among the oldest in Asia. Here there are rare samples of tropical timber - like paduk and the marble and satin woods (1 hours).
Two museums and a zoo. The anthropological Museum, Marine Museum and Mini Zoo. See a panorama of the life of the Paleolithic islanders, a display of marine life with sea crocodiles, dolphins, barracuda and pearl oysters. (2 hours).
After noon at the beach. Round it off with a harbor cruise that takes you round the South Andaman Island and gives you a bird's eye view of mangroves, rain forests and other delights of this, living museum (3 hours).
Day Seven:- Repeat what you loved most or try a new spot. Commune with the birds and flowers - visit the sea to swim and dive. Take a walk so that the feel of the islands seeps in to last you till your next interlude. Say farewell to the people. Prepare to go back to 'civilization' and away form this 'never-never land'.
Every evening in Port Blair should be spent tasting its seafood - lobsters, shrimps and a variety of fish. Drink as much as you can of dhap or fresh coconut water and try tropical fruit; papayas, pineapples, sapota and a variety of bananas.
To be one with the Andamans, hear tales of its history and the deeds of its earlier 'conquerors' from the 'locals'. An old waiter in a restaurant may well have been a convict who opted to stay in the islands when the prisoners were set free in 197. Late into the night he may give vent to pent up emotions, loosen his tongue, and take you back through the last 50-60 years of island history. To really understand the islands learn through its people and looks written by those who loved them.
GETTING THERE
By Air
Indian Airlines connects Port Blair three times a week with Madras, Delhi and Bhubaneswar and four times a week with Calcutta.
By Sea
The ships M.V. Andamans, T.S.S. Nncowry, M.V. Harshavardhana and M.V. Akbar operate to Port Blair from Calcutta, Madras and Visakhapatnam. The crossing takes two to three days.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
There is a ferry service three times daily around South Andaman Island from the Fisheries Jetty, Port Blair.
Ferries operate between Port Blair and other islands in the Andaman and Nicobar groups.
MISCELLANEOUS
Note: Foreigners need a permit to visit the Andaman Islands. This can be obtained on arrival at Port Blair. The permit is valid for 15 days. Foreigners are not permitted to visit Nicobar and other southern islands. You can apply for a permit from overseas to the Deputy Secretary, Government of India, Ministry of Home Affairs. In Madras a permit can be obtained from the Chief Immigration Office, 9 Village Road, off Nungambakkam Road.
Courtesy : Discover India
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