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A strong spiritual current forms the essential background of the people of Maharashtra. |
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Whether it is Hindus or Mohammedans, or the handful of Zoroastrians, Maharashtra has a special place for the followers of all faiths within its folds.
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In prehistoric times the Deccan is said to have formed part of the Dandaka forest which the Ramayana represents as infested with wild men who disturbed the religious rites of Brahmin sages. In course of time an ancient holiness was attached to Bhimashankar, the Shivling of whose temple is one of the five jyotirlingas in Maharashtra. There are twelve jyotirlingas, revered abodes of Lord Shiva, across India.
Bhimashankar is located at the crest of the Sahyadris. In a dip in the hilltop 3090 feet above sea level, surrounded by forests, is the holy source from which the River Bhima trickles into a small cistern. Close to the cistern are two temples of Mahadev (Shiva), one old and needing repair and the other modern built by Nana Phadnavis (1764-1800). The old temple is a plain solid structure built of dark stone with a vaulted roof. The new temple is also built of dark stone and the spire rises in the form of a cone surmounted by a pinnacle. All around the outer wall of the lower part of the temple runs a row of niches containing small figures and Gods. According to a legend once, Lord Shiva weary from defeating an asura (demon), was resting. The Gods gathered around him and requested him to remain there permanently in his Bhima form with streams of sweat running down his body and to turn them into an eternal river of good. Shiva agreed to have his abode – Bhimashankar – on the river Bhimarathi. A dip in these holy waters is said to wash away sins. The revered saint, Dnyaneshvar (1271-1300) visited Bhimashankar after visiting Triambakeshwar which is revered as the source of the Godavari and one of the twelve abodes of Shiva.
Triambakeshwar arose during a dispute between the Gods Brahma and Shiva when Brahma cursed Shiva and hurled him down to Earth to stay there in the form of a mountain. This mountain is known as Triambak (three eyed) giri and at its base Shiva is seen in a miniature form as Triambakeshwar. After tempers had cooled and matters settled Shiva associated the name of Brahma with his mountain form calling it Brahmagiri. The temple here built of local black stone is enclosed in a large courtyard.
Lord Shiva is also honored in the form of God Khandoba at Jejuri. Khanda means a sword and Khandoba is taken to be a warrior king. He is known as a God of Sakamabhakti, that is he fulfills whatever desires are expressed before him by the devotee. A number of vows are thus taken before him and gifts made on the fulfillment of wishes.
There are two temples in Jejuri. The older temple is Karhe-Pathar on a higher level than the later temple Gad-Kot, meaning fort, because it stands on a hill and is enclosed within strong stone walls like the ramparts of a fort. In the garba griha (inner sanctum) are two lings and a number of Khandoba-Mhalsa (his consort) images.
A story recounts Aurangzeb’s command to attack the Jejuri shrine. His soldiers found the gateways closed to them so they dug a small hole for planting the dynamite. But the unexpected happened. Hundreds of bees came out and followed the soldiers. The commanders were told that they must appease Khandoba to rid themselves of the bees. Aurangazeb immediately presented a diamond worth one and a quarter lakh rupees to the God. The bees left and so did the soldiers. Outside the temple near the gate is this venerated wall.
Ganesh, son of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati is a popular deity in Maharashtra. He is known as Mangal-Murti, the auspicious deity and before any major venture prayers are offered to him. Although every town or village has a Ganesh temple, there are eight sacred centers of Ganesh worship, the Ashtavinayaks. The Peshwas devoted much resources to the construction and renovation of the Ganesh shrines of the Astavinayaks as Ganesh was their family deity. These are Siddhivinayak at Siddhatek a small temple on a hillock said to have been built by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar at the end of the eighteenth century; Ballalvinayak at Pali in the Kolaba district; Varad-Vinayak at Mahad; Vighneshwar at Ozaar near Junnar – a simple temple enclosed within a paved courtyard and walls; the Girijatmaka of Lenyadri which is a rock cut temple similar to Buddhist rock cut caves; Ranjangaon on the Poona Ahmednagar road; and lastly the most important of them all the Mayureshvar at Morgaon. In front of the temple is a big cell housing a giant stone image of a mouse, the vehicle of Ganesh, bibbling a modak, the favourite sweetmeat of Ganesh. In the garba griha is a image of Ganesh with four arms and three eyes. Thousands undertake pilgrimages to the Ashtavinayaks.
But it is the annual pilgrimage to Lord Vithoba (Vitthal) at Pandharpur that draws the largest numbers. Cutting across all castes and creeds, chanting the hymns of Saint Tukaram (1607-1649) lakhs of pilgrims walk to Pandharpur to converge on ashadhi ekadasi, in the fourth lunar month. The pilgrim (varkari) aspires to attain salvation through devotion to Lord Vithoba. The pilgrimage is often likened to a stream growing into a river. The distance, depending on the starting point, is covered in 15 to 20 days allowing for regular halts. Each group has a leader carrying a stringed instrument, the veena. Drums and cymbals are carried by male members; the women carry brass pots with water or the holy basil plant. Orange flags flutter in the breeze. It is through the medium of singing that the Varkari tradition is passed on as many of the pilgrims are illiterate. The pilgrimage affirms the tradition renewed by the great poet saints of Maharashtra proclaiming equality before God. An image of a deceased Saint’s feet, called padukas, carried in a palanquins as symbol of his living presence in the pilgrimage.
The legend associated with Pandharpur relates the experience of Pundalik a self-centered man who had neglected his parents. On a pilgrimage Pundalik stayed the night at an ashram where he was purified of his sins. Realizing his earlier impropriety he rushed to care for his parents. Pleased with his parental devotion Lord Krishna appeared before him and asked what he desired. Pundalik asked for the god’s eternal presence where he was standing. And thus he stands as Vithal, fondly called Vithoba. The image was removed during invasions, but it was restored during the Maratha rule.
Before reaching Pandharpur all the palkis meet at Wakhari, a small village on the outskirts of the town. On ashadhi ekadasi day they enter the town, take a holy dip in the Chandrabhaga river, circle the Vithobha temple carrying the palki and seek blessings from the deity.
There are many more pilgrim centers – Alandi where the tomb and temple of Saint Dnyaneshwar is located has a large fair in November – December; the mystic saint Sai Baba’s temple at Shirdi, which is specially crowded on Thursdays; Parshurama’s shrine at Pendhe in the Konkan; the Mahalaxmi shrine at Kolhapur; the Bhavani shrine at Tujlapur. Under a relentless sun, through dusty tracks thousands of pilgrim journey every year, awaiting in serpentine lines to briefly behold the deity – oblivious of all the hardships.

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