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Legendary temple towns scattered over some of the most scenic parts of Gujarat reflect interesting facets of history, provide glimpses of age-old ceremonies and a rich feast of experiences. |
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Have you ever heard of a hill, which has 863 magnificent, gleaming marbles spired temples rising in serried steps from its base to the very top?
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This sacred hill where none except the gods can live after sundown can be found in Gujarat. Palitana, which lies at the foot of the Shatrunjaya Hill (Place of Victory) acquired its resplendent temples over a span of 900 years through successive generations of pilgrims. The craftsmanship and beauty of the temple sculptures are almost flawless.
Today, Palitana continues to be one of the most sacred sites for the Jains. It is the ambition of most Jains to visit Palitana and its 600 metre high hilltop at least once in their lifetime and, if possible, to build a temple or to leave a contribution for one.
The ceremonies to adorn the deity at the Temple of Shri Adishwara (the first Jain Tirthankar or apostle) – the most sacred of the temples at Palitana, are engrossing. Nearby stands the Angar Pir – a Muslim shrine where women who want to beget children give offerings of miniature cradles. In the Chaumukh or Four Faced Temple is enshrined an image of Adinath which looks out in four different directions.
At Bhalka Tirth is the spot where Lord Krishna (of Mahabharata fame) was mistaken for a deer and struck by an arrow while sleeping in a deerskin. Lord Krishna, it is said, was cremated at Dehotsarga at Triveni Ghat.
Close to Bhalka Tirth lies Somnath with its shrine built by Soma, the Moon God. Constantly washed by the Arabian Sea, the temples of Somnath were ransacked and destroyed more than once by Muslim invaders but were rebuilt each time. The majestic monument as it stands today is a recent replication of the earlier construction. It is said that the original temple built by the Moon God was of gold. After it was razed to the ground, it was rebuilt with silver by Ravana. When the silver temple was knocked down, it was reconstructed in wood by Krishna. And when this was pulled down, an edifice of stone was erected by Bhimdev.
Relics of the old Somnath shrine have been preserved in a museum housed in a temple. An interesting Sun Temple or Suraj Mandir is also located at Somnath. Today, Somnath is famous as the seat of one of the 12 most sacred jyotirlingas or Shiva shrines in India.
In the green, mysterious depths of the Gir forest – the last abode of the majestic Asiatic lion – there is an enchanting spot called Tulsishyam. Here, along with hot springs there is a temple dedicated to Bhim and his mother Kunti.
At Champaner, 48 kilometres from Vadodara rises the legendary Hill of Pavagadh. The literal meaning of Pavagadh is Quarter of a Hill so called because, according to legend, this hill was once a portion of the Himalayan mountain which Hanuman the Monkey God carried to Lanka to save Laxman. The city of Champaner also boasts of the Jami Masjid – one of the finest mosques in Gujarat.
The 1,120 metre Girnar Hill which overlooks Junagadh is, like the hill at Palitana, studded with Jain temples. 10,000 steps form part of the 600 metre climb to the top of Girnar Hill. Atop the peak is the temple of Amba Mata, where newly weds pray for marital happiness.
At Modhera, 105 kilometres from Ahmedabad, stands a beautiful, intricately carved temple dedicated to the Sun – one of the finest examples of Indian temple architecture. Like the temple of Konark which it resembles, the Modhera Sun Temple, built in 1026-1027 by King Bhimdevi I of the Solanki dynasty, has been designed to allow the first rays of the sun to shine at the time of the equinoxes on the image of Surya, the Sun God. Though partially ruined, the temple retains its earlier glory. Standing high on a plinth overlooking a deep tank, the Sun Temple displays an amazing profusion of magnificently carved gods and goddesses, flowers and leaves, birds and animals on both its exterior and its interior.
Situated in picturesque surroundings on the coast of Gujarat state – at the point where the Gomti river meets the great Arabian Sea – the small town of Dwarka is as ancient as the Puranas and the celebrated Indian epic, the Mahabharata. Its name, Dwarka, is known in almost every home throughout the length and breadth of India for it was here, according to legend, that Lord Krishna ruled.
Lord Krishna’s kingdom is now an important pilgrimage centre steeped in legends. In Puranic times, present day Dwarka was known as Kushasthali or Dwaravati and enjoyed pride of place as “the most important spot on the Saurashtra coast”. It is said that Lord Krishna, after slaying the mighty serpent, Kansa, left his abode at Mathura and traveled with the entire Yadav community of Mathura to the coast of Saurashtra where he founded a town and named in Swarnadwarika or Golden Dwarika.
When dying, Lord Krishna asked his devotees to leave Swarnadwarika, so that the sea could engulf it. Legend has it that to this day, Lord Krishna’s Golden Dwarika lies below the sea. Excavations have revealed that five settlements were swallowed by the sea with present day Dwarka being the sixth in line.
The name Dwarika means ‘gateway’ and, historically, Dwarka served for a number of centuries as the gateway to the rich coastal hinterland of Saurashtra. Trading ships from Assyria, Italy, Iran and Arabia once called at Dwarka. Today, trucks trundle towards Dwarka to carry away salt, and soda ash and fertilizers from the Tata Chemical factory.
But pilgrims even in the modern day care little about modernity in Dwarka. For them, what matters is the past of Dwarka with its colourful legends and splendid temples with a wealth of anecdotes and episodes threading them to ancient times.
Rich glimpses of its glorious past and antiquity still exist in Dwarka. There is the Jagat Mandir or Nij Mandir which forms the sanctum of the famed Dwarkadish Mandir and dates back by more than 2500 years. The roof of the audience hall of the Jagat Mandir is supported by 60 columns and the main temple itself is five storeys high with the lavishly carved conical spire rising to a height of 157 feet.
There is the one metre tall, four handed black idol of Ranchhodrai – the ruler of Dwarika. But amongst the large number of temples belonging to different periods in the history of Dwarka, the most popular with pilgrims is the temple of Rukmini, Lord Krishna’s wife, who is considered an incarnation of Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth and beauty.
Thirty-two kilometres from Dwarka lies Shankhoddar island .Also known as Bet Dwarika or Dwarika isle or Ramandip, this island is supposed to be the place where Lord Krishna and his family lived. Bet Dwarika is also believed to be the spot were Lord Vishnu slew the demon Sankhasura.
Pilgrims are ferried to and fro the island in boats manned by boatmen who claim a long lineage. Near the island is the ancient Gopi lake and further ahead lies Dwarikavan or the forest of Dwarka. In the forest is located the famous Naagnath (Shiva) temple. It is recorded in the Puranas (ancient texts) that 12 Jyotirlingas or columns of light representing Lord Shiva manifested themselves in different parts of the country. The Jyotirlinga enshrined in the temple of Naagnath is known as Nageshwar Mahadev and attracts thousands of pilgrims all through the year.
In addition to its temples, its legends and its fame as the town founded by Lord Krishna, Dwarka is also sanctified as the seat of Adi Shankaracharya, who established four seats (mathas) in four different directions in the country. Research work in Sanskrit is carried on at the Shankaracharya’s seat known at Sharad Peetha. Together, the temples, the legends, the history of Dwarka – the township of Lord Krishna – provide a golden link with eternity.
Like Dwarka, Dakor is a temple town dedicated to Lord Krishna. The striking image of Lord Krishna in the temple of Ranchondrai is believed to belong to the golden period of Dwarka. It is said that a devotee brought this image from Dwarka and installed it in Dakor. On the silvery night of the full moon (Sharad Purnima) in October-November, a fair which attracts thousands of pilgrims, is held in the temple compound.
At Shamlaji stands an exquisitely sculpted Vaishnava temple. More than 800 years old, the archaeologically noteworthy temple hosts a colourful fair on the full moon day in November-December (Kartika).
Lord Krishna and Rukmini got married, goes the belief, at the temple of Madhavpur. On the 9th day of the bright half in March-April (Chaitra), a large fair replete with colourful folk ceremonies which recreate the joyous event is held to celebrate the marriage of the divine couple. Folk dances, music and fascinating legends lend a fairy tale air to the Madhavrai Fair.
Amongst the most popular places of pilgrimage in Gujarat is Ambaji, dedicated to the worship of Shakti. Folk artistes, farmers and people from the countryside have immense faith in Ambaji and journey to the temple at least once a year. Situated on the Arasur Hill, the Ambaji temple frequently stages the prized Gujarat Bhavai in its precincts.
The call of faith and the spiritual lore and lure of the temple towns of Gujarat is still as strong as it was centuries ago. The temples with their legends, ceremonies, fairs and sculpted beauty continue to be inseparable golden threads in the warp and weft of the tapestry of modern day Gujarat.
ABODE OF THE IMPERISHABLE:
Akshardham, or the imperishable abode, complex near the capital of Gujarat state, Gandhinagar, is emblematic of Swaminarayan’s vision. Spread over 23 acres the complex embodies four main sections – Akshardham Monument, Akshardham Experience, Akshardham Centre for Applied Research in Sockal Harmony (ARSH) and Sahajanand Van. The foundation stone for Akshardham was laid by the present Pramukh Swami Maharaj. He is the fifth spiritual head in Swaminarayan tradition. Human mind for centuries has sought to make life more meaningful through an undying spiritual quest. Desire for communion with the unknown has given birth to various religious movements the world over and Swaminarayan is one such movement within Hinduism. Swaminarayan (1781-1830) after whom the movement got its name was a radical In his own time. Regarded an incarnation of God by his disciples, he forbade social evils like suttee and discrimination on grounds of caste among his followers. He made another noteworthy contribution in imparting Sanskrit scriptures in colloquial Gujarati thereby taking religion nearer to the common man. Today the membership of Swaminarayan is claimed around on million spread over India and abroad.
Built in pink sandstone the striking Akshardham Monument was completed in six years. Inside is the memorial to guru, Swaminarayan, called Akshardham Amubhar. The main hall in this section is used for meditation. There is also a permanent exhibition devoted to its founder.
Akshardham Experience is more of a hi-tech affair. A video show and son et lumiere recreate the life and times of Swaminarayan. Moreover, an audiovisual presentation offers a guide to truth, knowledge and bliss. The eternal message of world religions, and in particular of the Hindu epics, the Ramayana and Mahabharata is also presented. The Upanisads, which are philosophical treatises on Vedic religion are a prominent part of the experience.
Education, health, welfare programmes in rural and tribal areas, ecology, natural calamity management, social reform and culture are proposed for study by ARASH. To this purpose the centre has a well stocked library, archives, study stations for scholars, a computer centre and a seminar hall. Sahajanand Van is a painstakingly landscaped garden. It contains a reservoir, waterfalls, a garden growing herbs and recreation facilities.
Followers of the movement in time of natural calamities like foods and droughts immediately volunteer and become involved in relief operations.
Akshardham is a significant landmark in Gujarat – a symbol of a heritage of tolerance.
SERVICES GUIDE:
Palitana:
By Air: Bhavnagar, the nearest airport lies at a distance of 60 kilometres from Palitana.
By Rail: A metre guage line connects Palitana to Sihor, and then on to Ahmedabad, a total distance of 275 kilometres.
By Road: State Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours connect Palitana to Bhavanagar and other important places in Gujarat.
Where to Stay: Toran Hotel, Sumeru, Hotel Shravak and a number of Dharamshalas provide comfortable accommodation.
Somnath And Bhalka Tirth:
By Air: The nearest airport is at Keshod, 49 kilometres away.
By Rail: The nearest railhead is Veraval, a mere 5 kilometres away.
By Road: State Transport buses, private buses and taxis ply to and from Somnath from other towns.
Tulsishyam:
By Road: Tulsishyam entails a 170 kilometre drive from Junagadh.
Where to Stay: There is a comfortable Toran Bungalow at Tulsishyam.
Champaner:
By Air: Vadodara, 48t kilometre away, is the nearest airport.
By Rail: Vadodara, 100 kilometres from Ahmedabad, is well connected by rail to other centres.
By Bus: State Transport buses and private buses and taxis run between Vadodara and Champaner and other places.
Where to Stay: The Hotel Champaner provides accommodation to those who wish to make an overnight halt at Champaner. Vadodara serves as a good base with a range of accommodation from which to choose.
Modhera:
Modhera is 105 kilometres from Ahmedabad.
By Air: The most convenient airport is at Ahmedabad.
By Rail: The nearest railhead is at Mehsana, 35 kilometres from Modhera. Buses ply from here to Modhera.
By Road: Direct State Transport buses, conducted tours, private buses and taxis run from Ahmedabad to Modhera.
Dwarka:
By Air: Jamnagar, 145 kilometres away, is the nearest airport.
By Rail: Dwarka is on the Western Railway line.
By Road: State Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours run to Dwarka.
Where to Stay: Toran Tourist Bungalow – a state run enterprise, and a number of dharmashalas provide reasonably neat and clean accommodation at Dwarka.
Dwarka:
By Air: Baroda, 80 kilometres away, is the nearest airport.
Ahmedabad is 90 kilometres from Dakor.
By Rail: Dakor is accessible by rail.
By Road: State transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours connect Dakor to other centres.
Where to Stay: Dharamshalas and Government Guest Houses provide fairly comfortable accommodation.
Shamlaji:
By Air: Ahmedabad is the nearest airport.
By Rail: A railway line links Shamlaji to other centres.
By Road: State Transport buses, private buses and taxis and conducted tours run from other centres to Shamlaji.
Madhavpur:
By Air: Porbander, 60 kilometres away or Keshod, 40 kilometres from Junagadh are convenient airports.
By Rail: Madhavpur can easily be reached from the Porbander railway station.,
By Road: State Transport buses, private buses and taxis, conducted tours connect Madhavpur to other centres.
Where to Stay: Both Chorwad and Porbander are convenient bases for visiting Madhavpur.
Ambaji:
Ambaji is 200 kilometres from Ahmedabad. State Transport buses, private buses and conducted tours can be taken to Ambaji.
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