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Delhi

Different communities who have settled in Delhi celebrate their own festivals with great gusto and add color and variety to the cultural fabric of the megapolis.

One cannot imagine Delhi without Durga Puja in Chittaranjan Park or Muharram, Id-ul-Zuha and Id-Ul-Fitr in Old Delhi. As the capital of India, Delhi is centerstage for many national celebrations, the two most prominent ones being Republic Day on January 26, and Independence Day on August 15.

Delhi



Preparations for these two occasions begin months in advance, especially for Republic Day, which is celebrated with great pomp and pageantry. All along the Rajpath, a grand procession marches by comprising soldiers from the three armed forces as well as the paramilitary forces, bands, schoolchildren, folk dancers, ceremonial elephants, tanks and the latest in Indian military warfare. Air Force planes flying in formation and exhibiting daredevil stunts add to the excitement. The presence of the President and the Prime Minister, foreign dignitaries and eminent personalities lend grandeur to the occasion. For those unable to be at the spot, the live telecast on television is a must-see. Two days later is the moving ceremony Beating Retreat held at Vijay Chowk. The bands from the different armed forces and the police contingents begin to play martial tunes just as the sun begins to set—the haunting music stirs up many emotions. Independence Day is celebrated in commemoration of the day India threw off the colonial yoke. The highlights of this occasion are the Prime Minister’s address to the nation from the ramparts of the Red Fort, flag hoisting in educational institutions, public sector enterprises, army cantonments, and private homes. Republic Day and Independence Day are definitely a time to take pride in being Indian.

Delhi also boasts of festivals unique to it—Phoolwalon-ki-Sair (procession of flower-sellers) is one such celebration. In August, flower vendors from different religions gather at Mehrauli with flowers woven into beautiful sheets called pankhas or fans which are offered at the shrine of Hazrat Bakhtiyar Kaki, a famous Muslim saint and at a nearby temple. This is a centuries old tradition practiced in the hope of bountiful harvest of flowers in the coming season and is aimed at promoting communal harmony. The Urs of Hazrat Nizammuddin Aulia is another festival special to Delhi. His tomb in Nizammuddin is crowded with devotees from all over India and special poems composed in his honor are sung. The streets in the area are transformed into one giant fair with stalls selling special foods, religious artifacts, holy books, and clothes.

Places Nearby
Many wildlife sanctuaries, heritage sites, hill stations, and quaint little towns surround Delhi. Take your pick and you can be sure of being far from the madding crowd—if only for a weekend. Agra, 203 km from Delhi is one of India’s most visited cities for the simple reason that it houses one of the wonders of the world—the magnificent Taj Mahal. Built by Emperor Shahjahan in honor of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal took over 21 years to complete and is one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in the world with incredible symmetry and craftsmanship in every inch. One can spend hours just gazing at the perfection of the Taj Mahal. There are many other sights to see in and around the city—the Agra Fort, Itmad-Ud-Daulah’s tomb, the Jama Masjid, the old city bazaars, and Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra.

Thirty-seven km from Agra is the town of Fatehpur Sikri, supposedly built on the site where the saint Salim Chisti foretold the birth of Emperor Akbar’s son. >From 1571 to 1585, it was the imperial capital, but was abandoned soon after due to inadequate water supply. However, even today, pilgrims visit the mosque and tomb built to honor Salim Chisti to seek divine intervention to resolve their problems or fulfill particular desires. The royal apartments are worth a visit as they represent an aesthetic fusion of Mughal and Hindu architecture and contain many unique structures—the five-storied Panch Mahal, the Pachisi court where Emperor Akbar used to play chess with slave girls as the pieces.

If you are in the mood for a shorter trip, then visit Mathura, 145 km away from Delhi on the banks of the Yamuna. Since ancient times, Mathura has been a pilgrimage site for Buddhists, Hindus, and Jain. It has many places associated with Lord Krishna and its museum has one of the best collections of inscriptions and sculptures. A few kilometers from Mathura is the temple town of Brindavan—spend a weekend getting to know the spiritual side of India in these two places.

Haryana encloses Delhi on three sides and its many tourist complexes are ideal for quick getaways as most of them are quite close. Damdama, just 64 km from Delhi, makes for a nice break from the rigors of city life. Drive past lush fields and quaint villages to arrive at the lakefront Saras Tourist Complex where you can relax and rest to your hearts content. If you can get away for a little longer, escape to the Morni Hills and let the cool air and scenic beauty revive your spirit.

If you are an avid wildlife fan, there are many interesting wildlife sanctuaries where you can escape for a few days without going too far from Delhi. Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary, just 46 km away on National Highway 8, is a birdwatcher’s paradise with a sizable population of resident and migratory birds. Once a dry belt with a shallow water body that attracted birds during the monsoon, Sultanpur was transformed by the ornithologist Peter Jackson who got the area landscaped and suitable vegetation planted. The best time to visit is after the monsoons when the rains have bequeathed a verdant green cover and the lake is full of fish, frogs, and crustaceans. You can spend endless hours watching the antics of the birds—see the spoonbills wading in the water, the ducks foraging at the water’s edge and if you are feeling more adventurous and would like to venture further afield, Bharatpur and Sariska are ideal holiday destinations. The Sariska National Park covers an area of 498 square km and is just a four-hour drive from Delhi. Although a great variety of wild animals are present in the sanctuary, the main attraction here is the magnificent tiger. There are many machans or viewing platforms, where one can wait quietly after sunset, for the beast to make an appearance. Bharatpur is interesting both for the Bird Marsh Sanctuary it houses as well as its many ancient monuments. The Keoladeo Ghana National Park, once a great marsh famous for duck shoots held by the raja of Bharatpur, is one of India’s famous bird sanctuaries—it is the site where the Siberian cranes come every winter. If you want to escape to the hills, especially during the enervating Delhi summer, you do not have to look too far. Mussoorie, 325 km from Delhi and at an altitude of 6,000–7,000 feet, is the favourite haunt of people from Delhi. It’s not unusual to find half of Delhi on the Mall on some weekends. Mussoorie, with its cool clime, has a lot to offer—it is, in fact, known as the ‘Queen of Hill Stations’. On a clear day, the view of the surrounding mountains and the plains below with the river Yamuna meandering along is simply stupendous. Twenty-five kilometers away from Mussoorie is another enchanting destination, Dhanaulti, at an altitude of 2,400 m, which offers some of the best views of the Himalayas and plenty of trekking opportunities.

Rajasthan’s proximity to Delhi allows for some fantastic weekend holiday destinations—especially historical sites and temple towns. Jaipur, just 265 km away makes for a wonderful change—the magnificent forts, palaces and other royal edifices, the colorful bazaars, the skilled craftspeople. If you are in the mood to see some more of India’s glorious heritage, take a trip to the Shekawati region where the murals painted on the houses and havelis will leave you breathless with amazement. Sikar, Fatehpur, Ramgarh, Mahansar, Bissau, Malsisar, Alsisar, Mandawa, Nawalgarh, and Dundlod are some of the important sites. Bikaner, just an overnight train journey from Delhi, is yet another exciting holiday option. There is plenty to see here—the Junagarh Fort, the Lalgarh Palace, and the Ganga Golden Jubilee Museum. Take time off to sample the local delicacies—Bikaner has some of the best kachories served with yogurt and the most delicate ghevar, a honeycomb-like sweet. Just seven hours from Delhi by the Shatabdi express, Ajmer is another popular destination in Rajasthan—the Dargah Khwaja Sahib, the tomb of the Muslim saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti is a famous pilgrimage site. Ajmer also boasts of the Mayo College, a public school of considerable repute, and several historical monuments. Close by is the sacred lake at Pushkar where there is a temple to Brahma (believed to be the only one of its kind). The fair held in Pushkar in November draws visitors from all over the world. Jodhpur, the gateway to the great Thar Desert, is easily accessible by rail, air, and road. The Mehrangarh Fort, the Umaid Bhawan Palace, Giridkot, and Sardar Market—all these highlight the best of Rajasthani art, craft, and culture.

The Delhi Tourism Development Corporation (DTDC) runs regular tour services to some of these holiday destinations. State transport, DTC, and other bus services are available from the Interstate Bus Terminus. There are regular express and ordinary train services to most places above. Indian Airlines and private airlines fly to the major towns and cities, and it is possible to drive down from the airport to the chosen holiday destination.

Shopping
Delhi has a great variety of products on offer for a prospective buyer. A favorite haunt of shoppers in Delhi is Chandni Chowk. It started out as a walk for the royal families and had the river Yamuna flowing beside it. The reflection of the moon in these waters gave it its ethereal name—‘Moonbeam Square’.

The by lanes of Chandni Chowk have been named after the specialty items that are available here. For instance, if you need a break go to Parantha Wali Gali for a delicious lunch of the most crisp and light-stuffed paranthas. The eateries here have been in operation for over 100 years! Mughal cuisine in Chandni Chowk is at its most genuine. Karim’s is one of the most famous manifestations. It serves some of the delicacies of 16th–17th-century kitchens. For an overcrowded shopping arena, the hygiene when preparing the food is a pleasant surprise.

Stroll through the lanes and by lanes of Chandni Chowk and you will find everything under the sun—wholesale items ranging from hair dryers to spare parts of a BMW. There are whole streets devoted to just one kind of item. Unlike in the West, where these would be wholesale markets and only retailers could buy from them, anyone can buy at these shops. The most interesting street in this area is Dariba Kalan where all jewelers have their shops—one of the oldest markets in Delhi dating from the Mughal period. There used to be a lake around the Red Fort and women in purdah (behind veils) would take boats to the mosques. This market sprang up on the lakeside to entice them. As proof of this, the name of the neighboring area, Darya Ganj, includes the Urdu word for lake (darya) and a nearby street is called Ballimaran (meaning, the street of the boat rowers).

Move to the south and you come across Hauz Khas Village. This is one of the many villages subsumed by the growth of Delhi and still maintains much of the village ambience. In the early 1980s, it began its transformation to a chic shopping area when socialite and garment exporter, Bina Ramani, opened her boutique here. Soon, other exclusive stores moved in. The most popular stop is Dastkar that markets goods made by women in villages all across India. Dastkar designers work with groups in the different states taking the traditional decorative arts and applying them in new ways on items that city dwellers snap up. This is a great place for buying gifts.

An excellent restaurant complex in Hauz Khas is Village Bistro that was begun in collaboration with Delhi Tourism to offer an evening of entertainment in the spectacular setting of the 24th-century madrassa (religious school). Starting from about 6 pm, you can see a variety of dances from all across India. Follow this up with dinner at one of the Bistro’s restaurants and a drink at their rooftop bar overlooking the archeological monuments.

The Santushti Shopping Complex, on the edge of Chanakyapuri diplomatic Enclave, opposite the Samrat Hotel, provides an entirely different experience in shopping. A brainchild of the Air Force Officers’ Wives’ Welfare Association, it is the haunt of Delhi’s beau monde—beautifully landscaped.

Of course, if it’s trinkets and such stuff that interests you, then go to Janpath. Along the pavements, you will find an unending line of shops selling all kinds of trinkets and curios and export-surplus clothes at bargain rates that you can bargain even further! Another place for export-surplus garments is Sarojini Nagar. For clothes, the whole world goes to Lajpat Nagar and Shankar Market. But a trip around Connaught Circus has its own quaint appeal. While you are there, Palika Bazaar, the underground shopping complex, is a place where you can, again, find almost everything under the sun—from antiques to the latest electronic contraptions—but bargaining is essential. Before venturing out take note of the fact that you need to know the day of closure for different markets; otherwise you will drive across town only to find the market closed! Best days to avoid are Sundays, Mondays, and Tuesdays.

After all this shopping, you must be exhausted. Take a break, soak your feet and then get ready to drive out to India Gate—the place to wind up for the day. Here you will always find people—mainly families—from all walks of life either basking in the sun on a winter afternoon or strolling on the lawns on a balmy summer evening. India Gate is a wonderful way to unwind. Walk bare feet on the grass, watch the children frolic on the lawns, buy a balloon, try some of the snacks from the numerous vendors, or an ice cream, or just lie back and gaze at the stars!

For handicrafts, one can visit Dilli Haat and state emporia situated on Baba Kharak Singh Marg near Connaught Place. Bookshops are available all over the city, but for a good bargain visit Darya Ganj and Nai Sarak in Old Delhi. Most of the multinational brands are available in Delhi through their franchises or at shopping complexes.

How To Reach
By Air
Delhi is conveniently connected to all the major cities of the world with almost all the major airlines operating out of here. Delhi has two airports catering to domestic and international flights, located 4½ km apart in Palam. The international airport (known as Indira Gandhi International Airport) is situated 20 km from the city center. Taxis and coaches are available. The booking offices are mostly situated at Connaught Place and around.

By Rail
Delhi is connected to almost all the cities in the country by super-fast and express trains. The city has three major railway stations at New Delhi, Old Delhi, and Nizamuddin. Luxury trains like the Palace-on-Wheels, Fairy Queen, and Royal Orient Express can be taken from Delhi Cantonment railway station. Rajdhani Express trains connect Delhi from the state capitals. Shatabdi Express trains connect Delhi to the neighboring cities.

By Road
New Delhi is connected to all the major cities of the northern India through road. Buses can be taken from the inter-state bus terminals at Kashmere Gate, Anand Vihar, and Sarai Kale Khan.

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